Name: Giant Nutmeg-yew of Mangan Temple (満願寺のカヤ)
Type: Japanese Nutmeg-yew (Torreya nucifera)
Trunk Circumference: 5.0m
Age: 500 years
Location: 栃木県河内郡上三川町東汗 (36° 28′ 15.729″N 139° 56′ 44.376″E)
Date of Visit: 2011-7-18
On the right bank of the Kinu River, not far from the boundary with Utsunomiya, lies Mangan Temple. The current temple to Yakushi (薬師, or भैषज्यगुरु, Bhaisajyaguru, the Healing Buddha) was built in Kyouhou 1 (享保元年, 1716). It is said that if you pray at the statues of Yakushi and Shodo Shonin (勝道上人) so fervently that you sweat, it’s a good omen.
The nutmeg-yew stands alone, separated from other trees. From the strength of its branches to the vigor of its leaves, one cannot find fault with this tree. It seems as though it will just keep getting bigger for a long time.
Name: Giant Ginkgo of Mibu Temple (壬生寺のイチョウ)
Type: Ginkgo/Maidenhair Tree (Ginkgo biloba)
Trunk Circumference: 5.1m
Age: 400-500 years
Location: 県下都賀郡壬生町大師町 (36° 25′ 55.2138″N 139° 47′ 51.8706″)
Date of Visit: 2011-7-18
This area is called Daishi (大師), but unlike one may expect, it doesn’t refer to Kobou-daishi Kuukai (弘法大師空海), but rather to Jikaku-daishi Ennin (慈覚大師円仁). Ennin was the first monk in Japan to be granted the title “Daishi”, great teacher. This sacred place is said to be the birthplace of Ennin. On the grounds, there is a well where Ennin is said to have had his first bath as a baby. Even now, the water still flows out of a bamboo pipe. It is said that if you drink the water from this well, it will ensure an easy childbirth, and plentiful breast milk.
Long ago, there was another temple here, but even then, this place was said to be the birthplace of Ennin. Ennin was born in Enryaku 13 (延暦１３年, 794CE). Though it is not clear how it transpired, centuries later in Joukyou 3 (貞享３年, 1686), the lord of Mibu Castle asked the head priest of Rinno Temple, Prince Tenshin, (who was the fifth son of Emperor Go-Sai) to have a hall with a statue of Ennin built. That hall is still around, and was added to Mibu Town’s register of Tangible Cultural Assets in 1991. But it was damaged during the earthquake of March 11, 2011, and on this day, repairs were still ongoing.
The Mibu Temple that had stood from at least 1686 was demolished in Taisho 5 (大正５年, 1916 CE) and the current building was erected.
This giant ginkgo, a registered natural monument, stands in the center of the temple grounds. It has been diligently pruned, so as to maintain a neat, tidy form that ginkgos rarely conform to on their own. One thinks, at first sight, that it’s a little small to be included in the prefectures natural monument list, but I suppose the set of this tree and Ennin’s birthplace give it added value.
When I arrived, the couple that run the temple were outside, and they were glad to talk to me at length about it. They led me to the tree and told me to put my hand on a patch of bark that was lighter than the others. “This is the tree’s energy spot. You can feel its ki if you put your hand here.” I did, but I didn’t feel anything. They also pointed out some cherry trees that were planted by Edwin O. Reischauer when he visited here during his tenure as US Ambassador to Japan. Reischauer had a keen interest in the life and achievements of Ennin, so it’s natural that he would visit here.