Tag Archives: shrine

Giant Tree Files: Ω3 The Giant Camphor of Kawago

Ω3: The Giant Camphor of Kawago
I drove nearly 3000km (round trip) to see this tree, and it was certainly worth it.

Name: The Giant Camphor of Kawago (川古のクス)
Type: Camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora)
Height: 25m
Trunk Circumference: 21m
Age: 3000 years
Location: 佐賀県武雄市若木町川古 (33° 15′ 07″N 129° 59′ 35″E)
Date of Visit: 2013-03-25

This giant camphor tree stands on the grounds of Hinoko Shrine (日子神社). However, these days the grounds around the tree are more commonly known as Kawago Giant Camphor Park, and is maintained by the town. It’s difficult to feel that this is a shrine. In fact, the actual Hinoko Shrine? I didn’t see it at all when I was there.

Ω3: The Giant Camphor of Kawago
That pole that you see in all the pictures is actually a lightning rod. Of all the giant trees I’ve visited over the years, this is the only one with its own lightning rod, and what a good idea that is!

The trunk circumference is 21m. In a Heisei 1 (平成元年, 1989 CE) survey of giant trees by the Ministry of the Environment, the root circumference was found to be 35m, and even 2m above the root/trunk boundary, the trunk was still a hefty 12.5m in circumference. At 4m above the root/trunk boundary, it’s still 11.4m around. Because of the very gradual taper of the trunk, anyone coming face to bark with this tree will undoubtedly be left with an impression of great bulk.

Ω3: The Giant Camphor of Kawago
Here’s the wee shrine at the base of what was once an open hollow featuring a carved in situ statue of Kannon.

On the south side of the trunk there is a great hollow, which is now filled in with whatever synthetic compound tree surgeons use for such purposes, with a tiny space for a wee shrine. Formerly, where is now a filled-in-hollow, there stood a statue of Kannon said to be carved by Gyoki (行基). It wasn’t carved and then placed into a pre-existing hollow, no no. This image of Kannon was carved directly into the in situ heartwood of the tree. (This doesn’t present as large a problem as it seems at first, as the heartwood doesn’t perform life-sustaining functions, merely structural ones).

Ω3: The Giant Camphor of Kawago
Awesome.

In the early Meiji period, there was an anti-Buddhist movement in the country (Haibutsu kishaku, 廃仏毀釈, literally “abolish Buddhism and destroy Shakyamuni”), and during this period the statue was beheaded. By Showa 60 (昭和60年, 1985 CE), the region around the statue had started to rot, including the outer layers, which presented a real danger to the tree. The remains of the statue were removed and the resulting hollow was filled. The statue now resides in a nearby (but apparently well-hidden, as I didn’t find it) Kannon-do.

Even without the statue though, a magnificent tree such as this is naturally going to inspire feelings of devotion and spirituality.

Ω3: The Giant Camphor of Kawago
This was late March, imagine how this place must be in high summer!

In the Record of Hizen Province (肥前国風土記), it is said that Yamato Takeru (日本武尊, who also made an appearance in the history of the Ancient Sakura of Yamataka) observed that camphor trees flourished and were of particularly good quality in this region, and so he called the place Saka no Kuni (栄国); it is said that this is the origin of the present day name of Saga (佐賀).

Though this tree would have been 1000 years old when Yamato Takeru was here, and perhaps it’s all just a legend anyway, it’s nice to think that maybe it was this tree that led Yamato Takeru to make his observation.

Ω3: The Giant Camphor of Kawago
There were children playing near a pond filled with carp and a pair of swans waddling hither and yon. A water wheel click-clacked in the background and the tree just stood there majestically as it has since the fall of Troy and the founding of the Zhou Dynasty.

The Giant Trees of Tochigi: #67 The Giant Zelkova of Arakashi Shrine

#67 The Giant Zelkova of Arakashi Shrine
Here is the entrance to the shrine!

Number: 67
Name: The Giant Zelkova of Arakashi Shrine (荒橿神社のケヤキ)
Type: Zelkowa serrata
Height: 28m
Trunk Circumference: 5.5m
Age: 700 years
Location: 栃木県芳賀郡茂木町小井戸 (36° 32′ 18″N 140° 11′ 25″E)
Date of Visit: 2012-8-2

#67 The Giant Zelkova of Arakashi Shrine
Tree fungus!

North of Motegi Town Hall, at the top of Mt. Kikyou, the Motegi Clan had their castle. The front of the mountain facing the town is a steep slope, but the rear has a flat plateau perfect for building on. This place is called “Tachi” (舘, that is, mansion, or small castle), so it may be where someone related to the castle once had a home?

#67 The Giant Zelkova of Arakashi Shrine
Leaves!

Arakashi Shrine is located on the east side of this plateau, separated from the castle remains by a small gulley. The deities here enshrined include Kunitokotachi-no-Mikoto (国常立命), Toyoshikumono-no-Mikoto (豊雲野命), and Arakashikone-no-Mikoto (阿良加志古根命). The shrine is said to have been founded in Daidou 1 (大同元年, 806 CE). This shrine lies to the northeast of Motegi Castle, and thus probably served to protect the castle against the evil that flows from that direction.

#67 The Giant Zelkova of Arakashi Shrine
Baseball boy!

Before Manji 1 (万治元年, 1658 CE), there was a three-storied pagoda here. Back then, Buddhism and Shintoism were pretty deeply mixed, and I guess that mix would have made this a pretty impressive shrine. Now, the hall that once housed the image of the Amitabha Buddha is slowly falling down.

#67 The Giant Zelkova of Arakashi Shrine
1) This road isn’t so busy that there’s much chance of pulling out into traffic and 2) no one uses the mirrors even if they are there, soooo…

This zelkova is between the first and second torii on the right, beside the road that goes by the shrine. It’s near the Amitabha hall. The tree isn’t about to wither and die, but it’s not the healthiest either. Though I guess they probably put it in carefully, surely they could have put more thought into the placement of the mirrors.

The Giant Trees of Tochigi: #65 The Giant Zelkova of Kitanaka Hachimanguu

#65 The Giant Zelkova of Kitanaka Hachimanguu
That’s a tree!

Number: 65
Name: The Giant Zelkova of Kitanaka Hachimanguu (北中八幡宮のケヤキ)
Type: Zelkowa serrata
Height: 18m
Trunk Circumference: 7.2m
Age: 800 years
Location: 栃木県芳賀郡益子町北中 (36° 28′ 43″N 140° 05′ 41″E)
Date of Visit: 2012-8-2

#65 The Giant Zelkova of Kitanaka Hachimanguu
You can see what I mean about the bark.

About 1.5km south of the Mooka Railway‘s Nanai Station, the Hachimanguu of Kitanaka is enshrined. It’s about 200m west of National Road 294. It used to be called Iwashimizu Hachimanguu (石清水八幡宮, which seems to be a popular name for such shrines). It was founded by Ishioka Saburo (石岡三郎) in the Jishou Era (治承年間, 1177-1180CE). It is assumed that this tree was planted at that time, and that is how the age above was arrived at.

#65 The Giant Zelkova of Kitanaka Hachimanguu
It’s like a big ol’ Muppet face. There’s the eye, and to our right of it is a giant bulbous nose.

In the past, on the opposite side of the path, this tree had a twin, but now only the faint remains of a stump are left to remind us of that one. The remaining one, too, is in questionable health. The bark seems to be peeling off on most of the trunk, and up top, there are several large branches missing.

#65 The Giant Zelkova of Kitanaka Hachimanguu
On a day like this, though, it’s easy to look past the signs of declining health.

In Showa 58 (昭和58年, 1983 CE), the shrine was rebuilt, and now it’s quite splendid. Next door is a community center and field, and both places appear to be well maintained. The information board is almost boastful about the tree and this place, and so I imagine that it’s a place quite important to the locals.