Tired of goodbyes and lasts; looking for hellos and firsts.

Posts in category Giant Trees of Tochigi

The Giant Trees of Tochigi: #82 The Giant Ginkgo of Togakushi Shrine

Dec30
2011 Written by Mullenkedheim
The Giant Trees of Tochigi: #82 The Giant Ginkgo of Togakushi Shrine

At the end of an avenue of cryptomeria lies Togakushi Shrine. The avenue doubles as a laneway for a farmhouse that's just behind and to the left of the camera.

Number: 82
Name: The Giant Ginkgo of Togakushi Shrine (戸隠神社のイチョウ)
Type: Ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba)
Height: 38m
Trunk Circumference: 5.7m
Age: 350 years
Location: 栃木県那須郡那珂川町大内 (36° 45′ 06″N 140° 13′ 55″E)
Date of Visit: 2011-8-13

The Giant Trees of Tochigi: #82 The Giant Ginkgo of Togakushi Shrine

The entrance as seen from Prefectural Road 232.

Near the Ibaraki border, in the mountains, surrounded by rice fields, there is Togakushi Shrine. Off Prefectural Road 232, there is an arrow-straight 150m cryptomeria-lined path to the shrine. Behind the shrine, there’s a fairly large cryptomeria.

The Giant Trees of Tochigi: #82 The Giant Ginkgo of Togakushi Shrine

A wee bit of scarring.

Standing in front of the main shrine building is this large ginkgo. The thick single trunk stretches skyward, and I feel this tree has a great character. Around the base, it can be seen where young suckers have been cut out. It’s been done to preserve this tree’s shape, I guess.

The Giant Trees of Tochigi: #82 The Giant Ginkgo of Togakushi Shrine

A summer canopy to be enjoyed.

Ginkgo are dioecious. This means that there are female trees and male trees (unlike, say, tomatoes which have both male and female bits in the same flower — hermaphroditic, or cucumbers which have male and female bits on the same plant but in different flowers — monoecious). This is a female tree.

The Giant Trees of Tochigi: #82 The Giant Ginkgo of Togakushi Shrine

There are new suckers low down, and one assumes that whoever maintains this tree will tend to them if they get out of control.

Surrounded as it is by cryptomeria, one can imagine that in autumn, this ginkgo truly shines, as the cryptomeria remains unchanging, this ginkgo will shine in bright yellow.

The Giant Trees of Tochigi: #82 The Giant Ginkgo of Togakushi Shrine

Now, I must keep moving. I reckon I've unnerved the inhabitants of the farmhouse for long enough.

I try to show you my Japan. Won’t you show me your Japan?

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The Giant Trees of Tochigi: #80 The Giant Umbrella Pine of Nasu Town

Dec23
2011 Written by Mullenkedheim
The Giant Trees of Tochigi: #80 The Giant Umbrella Pine of Nasu Town

It may be more spectacular in autumn, where it would stand out from the deciduous trees.

Number: 80
Name: The Giant Umbrella Pine of Nasu Town (那須町のこうやまき)
Type: Umbrella Pine (Sciadopitys verticillata)
Height: 23m
Trunk Circumference: 5.4m
Age: 524 years
Location: 栃木県那須郡那須町芦野 (36° 59′ 11″N 140° 09′ 53″E)
Date of Visit: 2011-8-13

On a piece of high ground overlooking the neighbourhood of Ashino, there stands the remnants of the Ashino Clan’s encampment, known as Sakura-ga-jou (桜ヶ城), which these days is allegedly a public park, and is maintained. It certainly didn’t seem maintained when I was there…

The Giant Trees of Tochigi: #80 The Giant Umbrella Pine of Nasu Town

There are actually stairs there, but it doesn't look much like it.

As I was sitting in the parking lot with my windows down partially (so I wouldn’t have to waste fuel on the aircon), I started to hear a loud buzzing, and a “thunk thunk thunk” sound. Glancing around, I realized there was a Giant Asian Hornet trying to gain entry to the car. I quickly upped the windows and turned the aircon on, and then debated whether I should try to see this tree. I sat in the car for 20 minutes, I guess, relaying my situation on Twitter. I finally decided to move to a different, nearby, closer to the trail I needed to take, parking area and hope the suzumebachi didn’t follow me. Luckily, it didn’t.

The stairs up to the high ground were overgrown this day. Severely overgrown. I guess it’s better to come in fall, or in spring (there are lots of sakura trees around here, as you may expect given the name of the place).

The Giant Trees of Tochigi: #80 The Giant Umbrella Pine of Nasu Town

Out of shape as I am, climbing these utterly thrashed my thighs.

After a reasonable climb, there’s a large, flat clearing. This is the remains of the outer citadel. On the northern edge of this clearing, the land rises again. Looking towards it and a little to the left, you can see the remains of the inner citadel. Over here is a fairly large fir tree. But if you look to the right, you can see what I, at least, came here for. The Giant Umbrella Pine of Nasu Town. Umbrella Pines are actually fairly unique. They’ve been around, virtually unchanged, for 230 million years. They have no close relatives still living today. It’s listed as a vulnerable species.

The Giant Trees of Tochigi: #80 The Giant Umbrella Pine of Nasu Town

At the base of this hill are many signs relating to the tree: name posts, information boards, etc. It's got several names, including the Umbrella Pine of Nasu Town, and the Umbrella Pine of the Ashino Castle Ruins.

There may have been a way up to it, but I couldn’t find it, and being wary of a return of the suzumebachi, I made my visit brief.

The Giant Trees of Tochigi: #80 The Giant Umbrella Pine of Nasu Town

Had to pause on the way down because the hornet was patrolling the mouth of the path. When it buggered off, I made a dash to my car.

I try to show you my Japan. Won’t you show me your Japan?

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The Giant Trees of Tochigi: #79 The Giant Cryptomeria of Yuzen Shrine

Dec16
2011 Written by Mullenkedheim
The Giant Trees of Tochigi: #79 The Giant Cryptomeria of Yuzen Shrine

The sun does almost magical things in this grove.

Number: 79
Name: The Giant Cryptomeria of Yuzen Shrine (湯泉神社の大杉)
Type: Cryptomeria (Cryptomeria japonica)
Height: 47m
Trunk Circumference: 6.5m
Age: >700 years
Location: 栃木県那須郡那須町芦野 (36° 59′ 26″N 140° 09′ 25″E)
Date of Visit: 2011-8-13

Across the Nara River from the ruins of Ashino Castle, there lies Yuzen Shrine at the foot of Mt. Takebu. (More of a hill, really, but I digress).

The Ashino Clan (芦野氏) gave 60 koku of land to this shrine in the Kyouroku Era (享禄, 1528-1532 CE) as a sign of good will and to ask the favour of the gods. I guess the feudal lord must have had deep reverence for this place.

The Giant Trees of Tochigi: #79 The Giant Cryptomeria of Yuzen Shrine

This one is tall blighter.

At the front-right corner of the main hall (that is, the left side as you face it), stands a giant cryptomeria designated as a Natural Monument of Tochigi.

The Giant Trees of Tochigi: #79 The Giant Cryptomeria of Yuzen Shrine

At the time, I thought I was suffering heatstroke because the lights seemed so dreamy. Turns out the light WAS fantastic.

This tree has been hit several times by lightning, and at a glance, you seen where it has mended itself, and there is no trace of any burning.

The Giant Trees of Tochigi: #79 The Giant Cryptomeria of Yuzen Shrine

I hope this tree stands for many more centuries.

I try to show you my Japan. Won’t you show me your Japan?

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The Giant Trees of Tochigi: α8 Saigyo’s Wandering Willow

Dec09
2011 Written by Mullenkedheim
The Giant Trees of Tochigi: α8 Saigyo's Wandering Willow

The enclosure is made of special rocks from this region, Ashino basalt.

Number: α8
Name: Saigyo’s Wandering Willow (遊行柳)
Type: Weeping Willow (Salix babylonica)
Height: 10m
Trunk Circumference: 0.9m
Age: unknown
Location: 栃木県那須郡那須町芦野 (36° 59′ 44″N 140° 09′ 54″E)
Date of Visit: 2011-8-13

I realize it’s a bit of a stretch to include this in a “Giant” trees project, as it’s neither all that big, nor all that old. But it’s important, and it’s right beside a giant tree, so hey why not, right??

The Giant Trees of Tochigi: α8 Saigyo's Wandering Willow

やなぎかげ

When the poet and wandering monk Saigyo (西行, 1118-1190 CE) was on his travels in Northern Honshu, he stopped beneath a willow in this area and wrote a poem:

みちのべに
しみづながるゝ
やなぎかげ
しばしとてこそ
たちとまりつれ

Alongside the path
Fresh water flows, and
In the willow’s shade
Just for a little while
Would I take my ease…

In Bunmei 3 (文明３年, 1471 CE), the 19th head of the Ji Sect of Buddhism (also known as the Yugyou — wandering — Sect) was a fellow named Sonkou (Saint Sonkou, if you want to be specific – 尊皓上人). At that time, as members of the sect had done ever since its inception some 200 years earlier, he was wandering throughout the land, preaching the power of the nembutsu (念仏), converting people to this flavour of Pure Land Buddhism.

When he chanced to rest beneath this willow, the spirit of the willow appeared to him in the guise of an old man. Sonkou told the spirit about the Amida Buddha, said ten nembutsu on his behalf, and gave him a slip of paper with the nembutsu on it, as was the practice of the Ji Sect. The old man thanked Sonkou, and disappeared. As it was late in the day, and the willow was as good a place as any to spend the night, Sonkou settled down to make camp.

When night fell, the spirit rematerialized and, to repay the kindness Sonkou had shown him, he told Sonkou the history of the tree and the area through the medium of interpretive dance before disappearing once again.

The Giant Trees of Tochigi: α8 Saigyo's Wandering Willow

田一枚

In the spring of Genroku 2 (元禄２年, 1689 CE), the poet Basho was in the area, in the midst of his great wander that would give him the source material for The Narrow Road to the Deep North (おくのほそ道). Indeed, it has been said that Saigyo’s wanderings inspired Basho to his own. At any rate, after visiting The Killing Stone (殺生石, in present-day Nasu), he paid a visit to this willow. While sitting there, in the same place that Saigyo once did, he became lost in thought, and watched an entire rice field being planted. Thereupon, he wrote:

田一枚
植て立去る
柳かな

One field
did they plant.
I, under the willow.

The Giant Trees of Tochigi: α8 Saigyo's Wandering Willow

The marker denoting this as a natural monument of Nasu Town.

Still later, during his Basho-inspired wanderings of the north, Buson (与謝蕪村, 1716-1784 CE) was feeling melancholy about the state of poetry. In his age, he felt, there was no one of the calibre of Saigyo or Basho, and so he wrote:

柳散
清水涸
石處々

Willow bare
clear stream dried up
rocks here and there

All three of these poems can be found carved in stones around the Willow, reminding us of its importance.

Of course, the Willow I saw was not the Willow under which Saigyo sat; it was not the willow whose spirit achieved Nirvana with Saint Sonkou’s help; it was not the willow Basho sat beneath as a rice field was planted and it was not the willow featured in Buson’s stark metaphor of mid-Edo poetry. This willow is not old enough. Successive generations of people have taken it upon themselves, however, to make sure that a willow is always growing here. Spiritually, if not materially, this willow and those willows are the same willow.

I try to show you my Japan. Won’t you show me your Japan?

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The Giant Trees of Tochigi: #78 The Giant Ginkgo of Kaminomiya

Dec02
2011 Written by Mullenkedheim
The Giant Trees of Tochigi: #78 The Giant Ginkgo of Kaminomiya

From the mouth of the path. Directly ahead is the wee grove with the Wandering Willow. The Ginkgo lies further back.

Number: 78
Name: Giant Ginkgo of Kaminomiya (上の宮のイチョウ)
Type: Ginkgo (Ginkgo Biloba)
Height: 35m
Trunk Circumference: 6.0m
Age: >300 years
Location: 栃木県那須郡那須町芦野 (36° 59′ 44″N 140° 09′ 54″E)
Date of Visit: 2011-8-13

In the Ashino District, Yuzen Shrine has two bases: the one at Takebu-san (健武山) which is home to the Giant Cryptomeria of Yuzen Shrine; and this one, near Saigyo’s Wandering Willow. Because this one is located further upstream than the Takebu-san shrine, this shrine is known as Kami-no-miya (上の宮), the upper shrine.

The Giant Trees of Tochigi: #78 The Giant Ginkgo of Kaminomiya

The stone torii. Ahead, the shrine, and the ginkgo. To the left, the Willow, and to the right, a willow.

On the path approaching the shrine, near the stone torii gate, one can find Saigyo’s Wandering Willow. If one continues along the path, it becomes clear that the shrine is literally at the foot of the cliff.

The Giant Trees of Tochigi: #78 The Giant Ginkgo of Kaminomiya

I got kind of distracted by how awesome the rocks were ._.

Apparently this tree is not nearly as well known as the Wandering Willow. I must admit a degree of embarrassment, because even when I was there that day, I thought, “Oh, this is just some other tree, I’ll take pics and research it later — it mustn’t be too important,” but in fact the Wandering Willow is much more well known than this tree. As such, my post on the Wandering Willow will be… lacking, perhaps, due to my focus on this tree.

Though not as well known as the Willow, this tree does have a remarkable life force.

The Giant Trees of Tochigi: #78 The Giant Ginkgo of Kaminomiya

The base. The sidegrowth has really given this tree an interesting shape at this level.

The Giant Trees of Tochigi: #78 The Giant Ginkgo of Kaminomiya

A shot up the canopy. Absolutely lovely, no?

The Giant Trees of Tochigi: #78 The Giant Ginkgo of Kaminomiya

Ginkgo trees have this odd growth behaviour sometimes. They're like, aerial roots/secondary trunks that will grow down to the ground, I think.

Basho visited here in Genroku 2 (元禄２年, 1689). Perhaps this tree was here when Basho was. But, given its age, it is unlikely that it caught his eye. He was too enamored of the Willow, I think, to have given any pause to wee ginkgo seedlings.

The Giant Trees of Tochigi: #78 The Giant Ginkgo of Kaminomiya

Look, I told you there was a sign !

Nowadays, though, at mouth of the path, there are signs for both the Willow and this Ginkgo, so I think that, despite the tourist draw of the Willow, people still make time to wander further along the path and meet this grand old tree.

The Giant Trees of Tochigi: #78 The Giant Ginkgo of Kaminomiya

It's a lovely day for tree-hunting. Maybe I'll make a pit-stop at the Wanderer's Hermitage, that store over there.

I try to show you my Japan. Won’t you show me your Japan?

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The Giant Trees of Tochigi: #44 The Giant Zelkova of Muryouju Temple

Nov25
2011 Written by Mullenkedheim
#44 Giant Zelkova of Muryouju Temple

The tree is tucked away behind the priest's home and is overshadowed by the magnificence of the approach to the temple.

Number: 44
Name: Giant Zelkova of Muryouju Temple (無量寿寺のけやき)
Type: Japanese Zelkova (Zelkowa serrata)
Height: 18m
Trunk Circumference: 5.3m
Age: Unknown
Location: 栃木県真岡市下籠谷 (36° 29′ 14.7222″N 139° 58′ 49.0794″E)
Date of Visit: 2011-7-18

#44 Giant Zelkova of Muryouju Temple

Stairs like these almost always hold wonderful things at the top.

#44 Giant Zelkova of Muryouju Temple

An avenue of cryptomeria such as this counts as a wonderful thing.

According to temple lore, in Eiwa 1 (永和元年, 1375 CE), a pupil,  Sadayuki (定祐), of Head Priest Joue (定恵) of Senju Temple, started to build a small thatched hut in Komoriya Village (籠谷村). It is thought that, at first, it was used as a place to spread the teachings of Shinran.

#44 Giant Zelkova of Muryouju Temple

The main hall.

Later, at the end of the Tenshou Era (天正, 1573-92 CE), Komoriya Isenokami Masataka (籠谷伊勢守政高) became the patron of the temple and had it erected at its current location. Though the temple complex was only endowed with 30 koku of land, it is a splendid temple.

#44 Giant Zelkova of Muryouju Temple

Overlooking the road and some azaleas.

This natural monument zelkova stands out back, next to the temple kitchen, on the edge of a 10m ledge. From this location, the zelkova can look down on both the priest’s quarters and the nearby road. In springtime, in a small garden below the tree many azaleas bloom. Of course, the roots on the cliff-side side are large and strong to keep the tree from tumbling down the side.

#44 Giant Zelkova of Muryouju Temple

The tree itself isn't a beauty on its own, but its environment and the way it provides a home to other things makes it beautiful.

#44 Giant Zelkova of Muryouju Temple

And thus ends my Marine Day tree hunting expedition. It was certainly an excellent day, but so hot. After this, I went home and had a nap in the air conditioning (naughty, running the aircon in the afternoon on a weekday when we were supposed to be conserving electricity). But don't worry, this isn't the end, there are still LOADS of trees left to visit.

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The Giant Trees of Tochigi: α7 The Giant Evergreen Oak of Takao Shrine

Nov18
2011 Written by Mullenkedheim
α7 Giant Evergreen Oak of Takao Shrine

The Evergreen Oak and my car.

Number: α7
Name: Giant Evergreen Oak of Takao Shrine (高龗神社のアカガシ)
Type: Japanese Evergreen Oak (Quercus acuta)
Height: 11.1m
Trunk Circumference: 3.32m
Age: 230 years
Location: 栃木県河内郡上三川町東汗 (36° 28′ 15.4662″N 139° 56′ 42.468″E)
Date of Visit: 2011-7-18

α7 Giant Evergreen Oak of Takao Shrine

This is the entrance to Takao Shrine, and that just behind and to the left of the torii is the evergreen oak.

Sharing a complex with Mangan Temple is Takao Shrine. Here, adjacent to the entrance torii, is the Giant Evergreen Oak. This tree doesn’t usually live in places as warm as south Tochigi. They prefer cooler climates, and can generally cannot be found further south than Fukushima and north Niigata. And yet, here is one smack dab in the middle of Kaminokawa. This, like the Giant Evergreen Oak of Takioka Onsen Shrine suggest that the climate in Tochigi used to be much cooler than it is today.

α7 Giant Evergreen Oak of Takao Shrine

It was nice to get a chance to see a living Evergreen Oak after the shock that was Takioka Onsen Shrine. Alas, I must keep moving. On this hot, humid Marine Day, I had one more tree to visit.

I try to show you my Japan. Won’t you show us your Japan?

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The Giant Trees of Tochigi: α6 The Giant Ginkgo of Mangan Temple

Nov11
2011 Written by Mullenkedheim
α6 Giant Ginkgo of Mangan Temple

The first bonus tree of Mangan Temple: their ginkgo!

Number: α6
Name: Giant Ginkgo of Mangan Temple (満願寺のイチョウ)
Type: Ginkgo/maidenhair (Ginkgo biloba)
Height: Unknown
Trunk Circumference: Unknown
Age: ~250 years
Location: 栃木県河内郡上三川町東汗 (36° 28′ 15.6216″N 139° 56′ 43.3314″E)
Date of Visit: 2011-7-18

When I rocked up to Mangan Temple to find the nutmeg-yew, I was surprised to find more large trees. This is the giant Ginkgo of Mangan Temple. I don’t really know much about it, except that it’s an awesome neato tree. (shrug)

α6 Giant Ginkgo of Mangan Temple

Look at that tree! Look at it! It's treeing all over the place! GINKGO GINK GO! I got nothin'. There was one more bonus tree at this location, too...

I try to show you my Japan. Won’t you show us your Japan?

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The Giant Trees of Tochigi: #64 The Giant Nutmeg-yew of Mangan Temple

Nov04
2011 Written by Mullenkedheim
#64 Giant Nutmeg-yew of Mangan Temple

This place is located fairly close to the Kita-Kanto Expressway.

Number: 64
Name: Giant Nutmeg-yew of Mangan Temple (満願寺のカヤ)
Type: Japanese Nutmeg-yew (Torreya nucifera)
Height: 22m
Trunk Circumference: 5.0m
Age: 500 years
Location: 栃木県河内郡上三川町東汗 (36° 28′ 15.729″N 139° 56′ 44.376″E)
Date of Visit: 2011-7-18

#64 Giant Nutmeg-yew of Mangan Temple

The formal entrance to the grounds of Mangan Temple.

On the right bank of the Kinu River, not far from the boundary with Utsunomiya, lies Mangan Temple. The current temple to Yakushi (薬師, or भैषज्यगुरु, Bhaisajyaguru, the Healing Buddha) was built in Kyouhou 1 (享保元年, 1716). It is said that if you pray at the statues of Yakushi and Shodo Shonin (勝道上人) so fervently that you sweat, it’s a good omen.

#64 Giant Nutmeg-yew of Mangan Temple

There were so many dragonflies flitting hither and yon around the tree.

The nutmeg-yew stands alone, separated from other trees. From the strength of its branches to the vigor of its leaves, one cannot find fault with this tree. It seems as though it will just keep getting bigger for a long time.

#64 Giant Nutmeg-yew of Mangan Temple

#64 Giant Nutmeg-yew of Mangan Temple

Now, I'm not sure, but I think those berries/nuts may be how the nutmeg-yew gets its name. They resemble nutmeg (though, nutmeg comes from a completely different genus of tree).

#64 Giant Nutmeg-yew of Mangan Temple

I came to Mangan Temple to see this tree, but I ended up getting a 3-for-1 deal.

I try to show you my Japan. Won’t you show us your Japan?

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The Giant Trees of Tochigi: #72 The Giant Zelkova of Mibu Atago Shrine

Oct28
2011 Written by Mullenkedheim
#72 The Giant Zelkova of Mibu Atago Shrine

This zelkova stands at the edge of the shrine precinct and adjacent to a road.

Number: 72
Name: Giant Zelkova of Mibu Shrine (壬生愛宕神社のケヤキ)
Type: Japanese Zelkova (Zelkowa serrata)
Height: 30m
Trunk Circumference: 5.4m
Age: Unknown
Location: 栃木県下都賀郡壬生町壬生甲字車塚（三好町） (36° 25′ 55.6644″N 139° 48′ 37.0614″E)
Date of Visit: 2011-7-18

In the northeast part of central Mibu Town, constructed some 1400 years ago, there is Atago Ancient Tomb Mound. It’s a historical landmark of national importance. It’s a 65m long keyhole-shaped tomb mound.

#72 The Giant Zelkova of Mibu Atago Shrine

The lone zelkova at the road stands in contrast to the grove of cryptomeria.

In Genroku 7 (元禄７年, 1694 CE), the lord of Mibu Castle, Matsudaira Terusada (松平輝定) had Atago Shrine built on top of the burial mound. This lies to the northeast of the castle, the demon gate (鬼門), the place misfortune and evil are thought to come from. It is conceivable that this shrine was built to ward off the evil influence of the northeast.

#72 The Giant Zelkova of Mibu Atago Shrine

It deserves a nicer rope...

At the entrance off the road onto the shrine’s path, there stands lone zelkova. Though it is not a registered natural monument, the area around it has been kept clean. The rope, though, sports not white paper, but weathered plastic bags.

Inside the shrine grounds, immediately in front of the shrine, there is the remnant of what was once a great cryptomeria, with a trunk circumference of around 4m.

#72 The Giant Zelkova of Mibu Atago Shrine

Around this time, a man in a Nissan Cube and a man in a white van showed up. The man from the Cube got into the white van. Soon the van started rocking, and it was ever so uncomfortable, so I moved on.

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