Monthly archives for October, 2011
The Giant Trees of Tochigi: #72 The Giant Zelkova of Mibu Atago Shrine
Number: 72
Name: Giant Zelkova of Mibu Shrine (壬生愛宕神社のケヤキ)
Type: Japanese Zelkova (Zelkowa serrata)
Height: 30m
Trunk Circumference: 5.4m
Age: Unknown
Location: 栃木県下都賀郡壬生町壬生甲字車塚(三好町) (36° 25′ 55.6644″N 139° 48′ 37.0614″E)
Date of Visit: 2011-7-18
In the northeast part of central Mibu Town, constructed some 1400 years ago, there is Atago Ancient Tomb Mound. It’s a historical landmark of national importance. It’s a 65m long keyhole-shaped tomb mound.
In Genroku 7 (元禄7年, 1694 CE), the lord of Mibu Castle, Matsudaira Terusada (松平輝定) had Atago Shrine built on top of the burial mound. This lies to the northeast of the castle, the demon gate (鬼門), the place misfortune and evil are thought to come from. It is conceivable that this shrine was built to ward off the evil influence of the northeast.
At the entrance off the road onto the shrine’s path, there stands lone zelkova. Though it is not a registered natural monument, the area around it has been kept clean. The rope, though, sports not white paper, but weathered plastic bags.
Inside the shrine grounds, immediately in front of the shrine, there is the remnant of what was once a great cryptomeria, with a trunk circumference of around 4m.
The Giant Trees of Tochigi: #71 The Giant Ginkgo of Mibu Temple

The tree can be seen from quite a distance on National Road 352. Turning off that road, you are met with this view.
Number: 71
Name: Giant Ginkgo of Mibu Temple (壬生寺のイチョウ)
Type: Ginkgo/Maidenhair Tree (Ginkgo biloba)
Height: 19m
Trunk Circumference: 5.1m
Age: 400-500 years
Location: 県下都賀郡壬生町大師町 (36° 25′ 55.2138″N 139° 47′ 51.8706″)
Date of Visit: 2011-7-18
This area is called Daishi (大師), but unlike one may expect, it doesn’t refer to Kobou-daishi Kuukai (弘法大師空海), but rather to Jikaku-daishi Ennin (慈覚大師円仁). Ennin was the first monk in Japan to be granted the title “Daishi”, great teacher. This sacred place is said to be the birthplace of Ennin. On the grounds, there is a well where Ennin is said to have had his first bath as a baby. Even now, the water still flows out of a bamboo pipe. It is said that if you drink the water from this well, it will ensure an easy childbirth, and plentiful breast milk.
Long ago, there was another temple here, but even then, this place was said to be the birthplace of Ennin. Ennin was born in Enryaku 13 (延暦13年, 794CE). Though it is not clear how it transpired, centuries later in Joukyou 3 (貞享3年, 1686), the lord of Mibu Castle asked the head priest of Rinno Temple, Prince Tenshin, (who was the fifth son of Emperor Go-Sai) to have a hall with a statue of Ennin built. That hall is still around, and was added to Mibu Town’s register of Tangible Cultural Assets in 1991. But it was damaged during the earthquake of March 11, 2011, and on this day, repairs were still ongoing.
The Mibu Temple that had stood from at least 1686 was demolished in Taisho 5 (大正5年, 1916 CE) and the current building was erected.
This giant ginkgo, a registered natural monument, stands in the center of the temple grounds. It has been diligently pruned, so as to maintain a neat, tidy form that ginkgos rarely conform to on their own. One thinks, at first sight, that it’s a little small to be included in the prefectures natural monument list, but I suppose the set of this tree and Ennin’s birthplace give it added value.
When I arrived, the couple that run the temple were outside, and they were glad to talk to me at length about it. They led me to the tree and told me to put my hand on a patch of bark that was lighter than the others. “This is the tree’s energy spot. You can feel its ki if you put your hand here.” I did, but I didn’t feel anything. They also pointed out some cherry trees that were planted by Edwin O. Reischauer when he visited here during his tenure as US Ambassador to Japan. Reischauer had a keen interest in the life and achievements of Ennin, so it’s natural that he would visit here.

A pillar commemorating the visit by then-Ambassador E.O. Reischauer in 1964. That was the same year he was stabbed by "a disturbed youth" and contracted hepatitis from a subsequent blood transfusion. The hepatitis would kill him nearly 30 years later.
I try to show you my Japan. Won’t you show us your Japan?
The Giant Trees of Tochigi: α4 The Giant Zelkova of Enshuu Temple
Number: α4
Name: Giant Zelkova of Enshuu Temple (円宗寺のケヤキ)
Type: Japanese Zelkova (Zelkowa Serrata)
Height: Unknown
Trunk Circumference: Unknown
Age: Unknown
Location: 栃木県下都賀郡壬生町大字上稲葉 (36° 27′ 10.5942″N 139° 46′ 14.6958″E)
Date of Visit: 2011-7-18
I was passed a note in early June suggesting that here, at Enshuu Temple, there may be a giant zelkova. I made a note, and when out on this particular day, I realized it was on my planned route, so I stopped in.
There was a family in the main temple having a ceremony for a family member who had died. In Buddhist tradition, there are specific ceremonies that are held at fixed intervals after a person’s death. They exited just as I was approaching, and I apologized for intruding before asking them if they knew of the zelkova I sought.
“Ah, you must mean that tree. I’m afraid you’re two years too late. It’s gone.”
This is all that remains of the Giant Zelkova of Enshuu Temple. As with so many old trees, the insides had dried and hollowed, and a strong enough gust of wind is all it takes to blow them over. This one had become so bad that, for fear of it falling on the temple or the graves, it was decided to cut it down.

I wonder if anyone came here 49 days after it was felled to pay their respects. At any rate, I wanted to get to my next destination and leave this sadness behind me.
I try to show you my Japan. Won’t you show us your Japan?




















